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Oh no! They can see us 😬

Seafoam does just as good or better

I put a little seafoam in my oil and ride around for a little while before i drain my oil to do the oil change

That Pennzoil ultra platinum is just as good as amsoil

Not familiar with that Arcoil product but oil additives can change the the chemistry of your oil in a bad way, that’s why all oil manufacturers discourage using any additives?

thank you. stopped the leaks i had from the filter not closing properly

I've got say, I ran 2 seachem tidal 110s on my 55g, and those also has lots of room for media, and they are much easier to clean that this looks. My water was crystal clear.. the tidal is self-priming as well, which is a big bonus. I don't see anything better about this C4

What does the flush smell like? Does it have a smell to anything else you can think of, what does it say what it contains on the bottle?

filter medium, not media

Did You just use dechlorinated tap water that you heated to the same temperature as the aquarium?

Please don’t do this. You can use old media but place that inside your new canister filter. Leave that in there for 3-4 weeks, then gradually start taking bits out over another few weeks. Make sure to monitor your levels regularly and address any spikes in levels ASAP. Again, please dont dump all that waste on top of your fish’s habitat…..

HI, just seen ur video and good video, but with all the pre filter the 07 has, get rid of the course in 1st tray and put something more fine with alot of filter wool, only because ur media is way to dirty, to much getting thru.

How long did the oil stay brown?

will it work for 8 hours, i have 20 blue shrimp, 4 guppys, 2 cleening fish (i forgot thier name). i live in duncan bc and am travling to wistler. time added up+ safty =7 hours and likly of fish dieing is mid 1 hour to the farry 1 hour wait for the farry (assuming its late) 2 hours on farry 3 hours on the sea to sky high way safty=ok

I use a rubber hand squeeze siphon pump and push water through.

Good job. Im not surprised. I run amsoil in my 15 5.0. Im going to do this flush today before my oil change. Truck has almost 100k, got it with 50k and ran amsoil sig from day 1. I would like to think the amsoil oil has cleaned the engine alone over that time, but im doing the flush anyways, i figure it cant hurt and I plan on running this truck until the wheels fall off. Thanks for the time and doing this comparison. 👍

How long the the delivery process last like when do I know she’s done giving birth

Thank you very informative

Absolutely correct and vital. CO2 and O2 exchange can only occur at the surface. Moving water continuously and at a strong flow rate is critical for tanks with large numbers of fish like those from the rift lakes. This makes power outages especially dangerous. It is wise to reduce numbers of fish to insure adequate exchange in the event water stops moving.

DO NOT SET UP YOUR FILTER THIS WAY! On Fluval 07 series the course goes on the bottom. Bio media in the middle, than finish with polishing floss. You can do it this way but you will be changing your floss media a lot!

Great filter just issue with pump noise and that stupid sponge and poly garbage

But how does it run.

What a waste of time. No need for all that.

you forgot to put the oil cap back on..

The claim about Biohome filter media achieving a "full cycle" (reduction of ammonia, nitrite, AND nitrate) is a scam. Ten months ago, I "pimped my filters" according to Pondguru's instructions. The recommended amount of Biohome media for my 75g mbuna tank is 6 kilos. Since I was skeptical, I decided to go above and beyond. I added extra filters for more media capacity. In total, I have 10 kilos of Biohome media in my filters. All filters utilize the coarse/medium/fine foam configuration recommended by Pondguru. After 11 months of running filters with 10 kilos of Biohome (that's almost double the recommended amount), I have not achieved any reduction in my usual nitrate levels. My nitrate levels are the same as they were when I used a much smaller amount of much less expensive media (i.e., nitrates start at roughly 5ppm immediately after a water change and rise to approximately 30ppm over the course of a week). Conclusion: Biohome performs no better than the cheap bio media that was included with my filters. It does NOT achieve a "full cycle."

omg, the oil became so watery.

Normally if you put fresh oil in an old engine and run 15 minutes it will surely changes the color in to dark ! Changing with good full synthetic oil earlier than little normal date it would do better result .

Nice video so if i purchase the amsoil flush do you recommend it flushing it with the old dirty oil then draining the old oil plush the amsoil flush then new oil then drain then new oil ?

Shell makes quaker state, bet there's not to much difference between the two .

Is this a common black molly

Can't get it in the UK!

Excellent channel

You tellinng me that fish see oxygen answer wisely

Was that tank water in the tub? Did you do a water change prior to lessen the ammonia risks? Just curious

Are you testing the ammonia level as well as the ph level? I just wanted to ask

Great video man Go Canucks Go

Of course, the oil is going to be darker. You will always have used oil inside the engine during an oil change. It is very difficult to removed used oil inside an engine.

Used oil analysis? Several good options out there that could have provided some quantitative data, at least the first time you did the treatment

If that doesn’t work get a Fluval A20063 O-Ring. I tried your trick but couldn’t get it to work. I purchased two of the O-Rings off of Amazon used one and worked like a champ. My O-Ring was shrunk up about 25% less than the new one.

Science cup is a keg cup lol

Aldehyde = Formaldehyde

I'd highly recommend using a better oil filter. Those look like Honeywell (Fram-style) with cardboard end-caps. Are you gonna trust cardboard end-caps to your V8? Especially when every other filter manufacturer uses metal end-caps? A crime that they make those that way in the first place. Brief test, I know, but you couldn't spare the extra penny? Napa's basics are made by Wix. Also, pertaining to the oil color, I'd like to see what's sitting at the bottom of the oil drain pan. People talk about a sludge pellets draining out and settling at the bottom of their drain pan after using the engine flush.

Looks like you have a keeper there. I have done Flushes on Amsoil cars (my own) and have gotten much darker oil. Just a quick note if you take that truck to southern Florida or a desert in the summer switch to Amsoil 5W-20 for the extreme heat then change back to your normal thing when you get back --- high million and Florida plus 0 weight oil could total your connecting rod bearings 😢

Changing oil every 3k miles - nothing is cheaper and better than that

It's ordinary soft flushing. Safe stuff. Bc if u use aggressive stuff u can destroy engine

Do you know that you cant drain old oil fully?

I think your truck has had good regular maintenance. I have an old BMW that I've owned one year now. Although it has relatively low millage (120k kilometres) and runs good I changed the oil immediately after purchase and have been changing the oil every 5k kms it still gets dark rather quickly after an oil change.

New subbie today. Really enjoyed your Seachem Paraguard videos. Excellent intelligent information. Clear, consise and straight to the point without all the frilly nonsense cluttering up the message. Looking forward to binging on your channel!

My black molly gave birth but the other fish ate her babies

I come back to your videos frequently, so informative. It would be great to see you post again … 2024??